Kenzo FW 2022 at Paris Fashion Week by Nigo
Fashion history is quietly being rewritten in a clean, white atelier in Paris’s second arrondissement. Unlike the fashion scenes often shown on film, with haywire antics and chaos, the Kenzo atelier is remarkably calm. No cross talk, no giant cups of coffee, not even music playing in the background. Thank Nigo, the brand’s 51-year old creative director who is preparing his debut men’s and women’s collection, for the positive, at-ease vibes.
Nigo started his first independent clothing label in Tokyo in 1993 and went on to change the landscape of global street culture. Human Made is a Japanese fashion label, founded by fashion designer and music producer/DJ NIGO, in 2010. NIGO started up this brand in order to create things he was not able to with his revolutionary, trendsetting streetwear brand - A Bathing Ape (BAPE). With graphic designer Sk8thing, Human Made ventured into creating whimsical pieces of both quality and authenticity to reflect the pre-1960’s.
Working simultaneously in the worlds of fashion and music, with acute sensitivity to detail and through frequent collaboration with some of the best-known companies and creative individuals in the world, he has innovated new ways for fashion to relate to its audience that have since become industry standards. In 2020, he produced a magnificent capsule with Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton - Human Made x Louis Vuitton.
For his fall 2022 debut, flower prints and some of Takada’s own sketches from the 1970s are recreated on garments and accessories. Other ideas from the Kenzo archive, like Harris tweed tailoring and shawl-meets-snood collars, are re-introduced, while Nigo’s own obsessions like Ivy League style and Aka-e pottery appear as motifs. The silhouette is incredibly layered, not only literally, but with references that bridge East-West cultures. Several pieces reference the structure of a kimono.